ZLTD Watches has carved a distinct niche in the independent watchmaking scene, born from the fervent passion of its founders, Z.L. Toh and Raf Dzwonek. Their journey, marked by a deep commitment to traditional artistry and innovative in-house development, has quickly garnered attention from discerning collectors. From the meticulously hand-finished Series 1 to the technically advanced Series 2 with its inclined balance wheel, ZLTD embodies a philosophy where every timepiece is a labor of love, crafted by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. This commitment to detail, from mirror polishing to custom complications, reflects a brand dedicated to pushing the boundaries of horological excellence while honoring time-honored techniques.
The collaboration between Toh's vision and Dzwonek's expertise has cultivated a brand that is both authentic and forward-thinking. Their watches are not merely instruments for telling time, but intricate works of art that showcase a blend of Singaporean and Canadian influences. By embracing in-house manufacturing and finishing, ZLTD maintains a rare level of control over the quality and uniqueness of its creations. This approach ensures that each watch not only meets the highest standards of craftsmanship but also tells a compelling story of dedication and innovation within the vibrant world of independent watchmaking.
The Genesis of ZLTD: From YouTube Enthusiast to Master Craftsmen
The origin story of ZLTD Watches is deeply rooted in a genuine passion for horology, beginning with Z.L. Toh's fascination ignited by countless hours spent exploring watchmaking on YouTube. His journey transitioned from collecting readily available timepieces to a profound appreciation for the intricate artistry of independent watchmakers. This deepened understanding of traditional techniques, such as heat bluing, guilloché, and black polishing, spurred an ambitious dream: to establish a watch brand that meticulously incorporated these revered skills. This initial vision led to the creation of 'Z.L.Toh' and its debut, the Series 1, a limited collection designed to highlight these artisanal crafts. This foundational period emphasized the demanding processes of mirror polishing and the precise heat treatment of hands to achieve vibrant hues, setting a high standard for aesthetic and technical excellence.
The pivotal moment in ZLTD's evolution came with the integration of Raf Dzwonek, a self-taught Canadian watchmaker whose hands-on experience and experimental approach complemented Toh's vision. Dzwonek's background, starting from disassembling and reassembling Soviet-era watches, provided the practical mastery needed to bring complex designs to life. Their close collaboration on Series 1 components, particularly the dial, indexes, and hands, revealed a shared ambition to combine innovative in-house complication modifications with traditional watchmaking. This synergy led to the rebranding as ZLTD Watches, with Dzwonek becoming the master watchmaker, driving the brand's trajectory from Series 1.5 onward. The partnership signifies a powerful blend of technical expertise and creative aspiration, enabling ZLTD to continuously refine its offerings and introduce new levels of complexity and craftsmanship.
Innovative Craftsmanship and Future Visions: The Evolution of ZLTD Watches
ZLTD Watches has consistently demonstrated an unwavering commitment to innovative craftsmanship, evolving significantly since its inception. The Series 1 introduced a focus on meticulous mirror/black polishing for hour indexes and beautifully heat-treated Breguet-style hands, setting a benchmark for the brand’s dedication to traditional techniques. This was further refined in Series 1.5, which maintained these high-standard finishes while introducing vibrant anodized titanium dials and a 'jump hour' feature in a modified Sellita movement, transforming it into an elegant yet robust daily timepiece. The brand’s Special Project No.1, a collaboration with Legacy Watch Co., showcased enhanced manufacturing and finishing capabilities, featuring true hand-guilloché dials and distinctive spear-shaped hands. This progressive refinement, including the bespoke 'RD210' movement with stainless steel bridges and Urushi lacquer detailing, underscores ZLTD's relentless pursuit of perfection and unique design solutions, affirming their pledge to iterative improvement with each new release.
The pinnacle of ZLTD's innovation is embodied in the Series 2, a watch that originated from an unexpected idea by Raf Dzwonek and culminated in the ambitious in-house developed “RD01” Movement, featuring a distinctive 20-degree inclined balance wheel. This technical marvel, developed over 12 months, uses a heavily modified ETA 6498 gear train, with most components produced in-house from hardened stainless steel to achieve a brighter, more brilliant mirror polish on the anglage and chamfers. The semi-skeletonized architecture of the movement, with visible moving components and an artful blend of matte and polished finishes, creates a compelling visual and mechanical balance. The inclined balance wheel not only offers a striking aesthetic but also enhances timekeeping accuracy by mitigating positional errors. With future plans for annual releases that integrate new innovations and maintain a limited production of under 100 timepieces, ZLTD Watches continues to define its vision as a brand that champions in-house complications and traditional craftsmanship, resonating deeply with watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.