Grace Wales Bonner, a highly acclaimed figure in contemporary fashion, is making headlines with her recent appointment as Herm\u00e8s menswear designer. While the fashion world eagerly anticipates her debut in January 2027, Bonner remains focused on her current work, particularly her Fall 2026 collection, "Morning Raga." This collection draws inspiration from Indian modernism and post-colonial architecture, reflecting her signature intellectual and impactful design philosophy. She values a deliberate and considered approach to design, aligning perfectly with Herm\u00e8s's ethos of quality and timelessness.
The announcement of Wales Bonner's new position at Herm\u00e8s has generated considerable excitement. Following Véronique Nichanian's nearly four-decade tenure, Bonner's appointment signals a significant transition for the prestigious French house. Bonner, however, maintains a grounded perspective, stressing that her full-time engagement with Herm\u00e8s will commence later in the year, with her first collection for the brand not appearing until 2027. This measured timeline reflects both Herm\u00e8s's established tradition of thoughtful progression and Bonner's own reserved demeanor, which prioritizes meticulous preparation over rushed releases.
Despite the buzz surrounding her Herm\u00e8s role, Wales Bonner is keen to discuss her independent label's Fall 2026 offerings. Her "Morning Raga" collection, presented via a lookbook, continues to showcase her profound design intellect. The collection's name references the work of the renowned Indian brutalist and modernist architect Balkrishna Doshi. Bonner explained her interest in how modernism can forge new identities, particularly in a post-colonial context. She sees modernist architecture, with its grid and arch structures and earthy palettes, as a powerful symbol of independence and new beginnings, citing examples in Ghana and Senegal.
This architectural inspiration translates into a collection characterized by graphic elements and a uniform-like quality. The colors and patterns found in Doshi's work are subtly echoed in Wales Bonner's knit stitches, Madras checks, and jacquard designs. She intentionally avoids being overly literal or geographically specific, aiming instead for a broader interpretation of modernism's influence. This philosophical underpinning highlights her brand's enduring structural integrity, built upon foundational elements such as her collaborations with Adidas and Savile Row tailors like Anderson & Sheppard.
Wales Bonner's designs consistently blend classicism with unexpected disruptions. For instance, a white diagonal stripe on a brown polo or leather bomber jacket evokes the sash of a dignitary. Her signature tailcoat and tuxedo trousers are reimagined in softened indigo linen, paired with a washed linen wingtip-collar shirt. She emphasizes the importance of working with elements of classic design while introducing innovative twists. Her recent partnership with John Smedley knitwear, a brand with a rich history dating back to 1784, further underscores her commitment to specialized craftsmanship and high-quality materials. This dedication to expertise bodes well for her future endeavors with Herm\u00e8s, where unparalleled artistry is paramount.
Ultimately, Wales Bonner's journey exemplifies a designer who thoughtfully navigates the intersection of heritage and innovation. Her methodical approach to both her personal brand and her upcoming role at Herm\u00e8s demonstrates a deep respect for craftsmanship and a forward-thinking vision. Her work continues to explore profound cultural and architectural themes, translating them into menswear that is both intellectually stimulating and aesthetically refined, promising a significant impact on the global fashion landscape.